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Sunday, 22 September 2019
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Last wednesday at the Kirb
Bit late this one, but I had a good day at Kirby last Wednesday. Here's my slightly too long so as to fit the soundtrack video of the day...

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Turned out that Thursday was the better day.. but still had a blast.

I've been trying not to go anywhere as my vans shot, but temptation keeps getting the better of me. Didn't seem to be a decent forecast at the weekend, so I was all set to stay home. Then Saturday night I get an email from Mark Dowson which happened to mention how good the surf had been at Cayton (despite the 2ft forecast). So I double checked the forecast and the eyeball reports of epic'ness -Sunday was set to be bigger (a whopping 3ft at 12secs) and offshore. I figured a sunny day in clean small surf would be nice, so it was worth a punt and the long early commute in 4th gear!


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First stop was the point at Saltburn. Head high decent long rides on the Dominator; I thought I'd scored good and proper, little did I know that was nothing compared to what was coming next!

Pulled up at my favourite spot, grabbed the 5'11 Stretch quad (as I thought it was about time to give it a punt), left the GoPro behind and walked through the fields. As I got closer I could see there were a few out and it was a lot bigger than I'd expected.. 
In fact I'd stumbled across total epic'ness. The wind had vanished, the tide was right, the sun was out, it was head and a half, glassy and barreling! I thought I'd died and gone to Bali. Soo wish I'd taken the waterproof camera with me, especially when the sun set.
The East coast is always a surprise, and this is the second time I've turned up under gunned. Caught what I thought was a decent wave and heard the guys paddling out hooting, kicked off though to see the wave of the day behind -a solid double overhead grinding barrel with some dude slotted, then got completely cleaned up by it.
I had a good half hour to myself at the end and came in at dusk just in time to take this rubbish photo..

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Feeling pretty beaten up today, had a few bad slams followed by lip to the head when the tail kept coming round on me. Liked the Stretch but it felt like dropping in on a spoon, way too chunky for it (with me on board anyway)
Hopefully some evidence will appear on Seaweed but didn't spot any photographers, some pics from the morning on this blog though including Saltburn...




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